Jake's Famous soaks in tradition the way its signature crayfish bathe in their spicy broth. The dark wood booths, period fixtures and landscape paintings are all reassuring visual cues to this top-notch seafood restaurant's century-plus history in Portland. Fortunately, though the decor is ancient, the fish is morning-fresh: The daily menu lists the catches on offer, along with their waters of origin. Some of the most satisfying dishes involve seafood inside other seafood, paired with something gooey (catfish stuffed with crawfish and cream cheese; salmon stuffed with crab; shrimp and brie), though lighter Asian-inspired preparations have been making headway on the menu. There are also expertly executed cow and bird dishes for the non-piscivores, of course, but the focus remains on the ocean and river critters that gave Jake's its enveloping sense of history. This is the place to take your parents to spring the news that you're moving back in�just wait until they've signed the credit-card slip. (IG)