Forget namby-pamby tea rooms-—Java Man is exactly what Russian restaurants in the U.S. are supposed to be: incongruous, slightly forbidding and sudden in its comforts. From behind the counter of a chain coffee-shop franchise downtown, cabbage rolls ($6.75), borscht ($5.25) and pierogi ($1.85) are laconically served up by a man who looks like he's broken people in half. But man, oh man, is the food good. I just hope the owner doesn't have a daughter in town—he'd probably kill me.