With its wisecracking actor/waiter staff and menu of deli favorites, at Kornblatt's, those jonesing for a taste of New York can get a reasonable fix. The pastrami ($9.25) has just the right amount of fat and spice; with a smear of deli mustard, it transports you to the Lower East Side. Don't miss the terrific soups—the matzo balls are definitely sinkers, but delish. You'll need to do an hour of biking to work off the crisp, substantial latkes ($4.95). Beware the bagels. (MW)