Gotta love a place that serves the good stuff with no apologies. Recently relocated from its microscopic Northeast Broadway home to a much bigger (but weird) Alberta address, Lagniappe is not about to back down from its rich, fatty, greasy and praise-Jehovah-good Creole food. Celebrate the death of the Atkins diet with a fried-oyster po'boy the size of the Lusitania; curse your cardiologist as you devour a Mayan pyramid of pulled pork. Some devotees think it lost a step when it moved, but even if they're right, it comes closer than any other place in town to capturing New Orleans' true durty South flavors. (ZD)