The grittily urbane Montage jostles its diners around a bit with the outdoor wait under a truck-heavy overpass, strangers sitting elbow to elbow at long tables, the overwhelming walls of wine, the tanginess of those famous oyster shooters and servers' jackets embroidered with "Hate." But then it soothes eaters right back into their comfort zone with a steaming bowl of mac 'n' cheese ($5-$8.50), a plate of pork chops ($12.50), and a little pat on the head in the form of silly foil sculpture to house the leftovers. (It's fun to watch servers embarrass young men on first dates by giving them 4-foot foil swans for carrying out their leftovers. Compensating for something, kiddo?) There's a section of Southern offerings, too, but New Orleans faves like jambalaya ($7.95-$12.95) are sold short by undercooked rice. Stick to the comfort food. (MS)