Hidden away in an unassuming Victorian on a residential street, Lemongrass packs a wholly unexpected punch. Thai novices, take note: Here, even a spiciness rating of "mild plus" can be too hot for many to handle. Fortunately, Lemongrass doesn't fool around with its fire. Tell your server you'll take your pad Thai gai spicy, and chef-owner Shelley Siripatrapa might step away from her skillets and steamers to stare you down. In the apps department, the fried tofu and garden rolls here are among the best in the city. Still, don't let them deter from the delicate miang kam, a mixture of ginger, onion, lime, toasted peanuts and coconut wrapped in leaf lettuce. (JAD)