DIY types will appreciate this family-friendly Italian cafe. Order at the counter, set your own table and enjoy a pleasant atmosphere filled with natural light and checkered tablecloths. Typical entree choices include bland spinach-ricotta gnocchi baked in tomato sauce, rib-sticking smoked-salmon risotto cakes, and an oversized rustic raviolo—a blissful slab of pasta embracing hearty potato beneath caramelized leeks and cream, accented by prosciutto slices (optional). Even though it started off strong, Lorenzo's still has some kinks to iron out. An entree may cost close to $15, yet you'll be charged extra for bread. And a recent antipasto platter contrasted toothsome marinated mushrooms and pickled onions with listless white-bean spread and sun-dried tomatoes, thrown in with a skimpy portion of mortadella. A simple salad of bresaola and arugula was balanced perfectly with lemon and Parmesan, but the flavors fought each other—and lost—in Lorenzo's odd version of a Caesar salad. And when the crowds came in waves, service suffered. (TLB)