Delightful flavor combinations take center stage in this industrial yet intimate restaurant and bar tucked in a pocket of North Portland near the foot of the Fremont Bridge. Combining Mediterranean, Latin American and Northwest influences, Scott Guynn's dishes are composed not to be showy but to optimize each ingredient's potential, from salads that balance fresh and salty flavors to a coconut tapioca with lemon and guava. A seafood risotto is punctuated with generous morsels of brilliant charred shrimp, assertive mahi-mahi, bright cilantro and youthful microgreens, a constant delight with each bite different from the last. Owner and bar manager Lucy Brennan has been leading the boozy way for years with her culinary cocktails spiked with infusions and unusual ingredients. Try the Ruby, with beet-infused vodka and citrus, or her signature avocado daiquiri. One cocktail tends to lead to another here. Happily, the Interstate MAX is just a block away.

IDEAL MEAL: Pear and celery salad, seafood risotto, the G Sling (G Joy sake, banana rum, lemon and lime).