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October 19th, 2005 Angela Valdez | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2005

     
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This swank Latino-cum-Caribbean outpost has money in the bank with owner Lucy Brennan's trademark cocktails, making room for the kitchen to experiment with the menu. Although the decor can be a little too Pulp Fiction meets sexy South Beach for some of our finest tastemakers, the kitchen, which has seemed shaky at times, seems to be on a mission to prove its stripes with new-ish chef Lyle Jost. A juicy pan-fried rainbow trout arrives simply dressed in its own salty skin, a dollop of smoky romesco sauce on one side and garlicky mustard greens on the other. A velvety, understated corn custard served as a cool vehicle for cumin-spiked corn relish. (AV)

 
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