Nicola's is a temple of unintentional Eye-talian kitsch: wall murals of Venetian street scenes; a ceiling sponge-painted in sky blue; red-white-and-green everything. And the food reflects this stereotyped, Americanized yet endearing vision of Italy, with outlandish portions of cheese, tomatoes and noodles smothered in more cheese. Who cares if it's authentic? We're talking an overflowing plate of al dente spaghetti, slightly spicy sausage, sautéed peppers and tomatoes for $10.99. Pair that with an order of cheese and garlic bread ($4.99) roughly the size and heft of a high-school math book, and you've easily got dinner for two. Wash it all down with small but brimming glasses of decent Italian reds and whites that hardly top $6.