Those old men bending their knees in the North Park Blocks don’t know how close they are to deep-fried bacon. If they did, they’d drop their bocce balls and head for Park Kitchen’s dumbfoundingly delicious, lightly battered and fried bacon and green beans, served in a cone with tarragon aioli. The duck confit-and-basil-stuffed crêpe in a rich, frothy sauce with cubed feta and pickled cherries is tasty, too. Park Kitchen’s constantly changing menu of mostly small plates makes you feel adventurous even when you order something as minimal as lamb with three nightshades.
Order this: Grilled and chilled razor-clam salad with julienned seaweed and agretti.
Best deal: Tender baby octopus sautéed with agretti in “angry” sauce—a spicy, red arrabiata.
I’ll pass: On $4.50 bread service, even though it is Ken’s Artisan bread.