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October 20th, 2010 Angie Jabine | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Park Kitchen: Restaurant Guide 2010

     
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11:30 am-2 pm and 5-9 pm Monday-Friday, 5-9 pm Saturday. $$$ Expensive.
[OFFAL TASTY] On a quiet North Park Block between seedy Old Town and the hyper-affluent Pearl, you’ll find tiny Park Kitchen, a bastion of seasonal farm-to-fork dining. Settle into the cozy back room by the open kitchen, or the long bar, where you can sample flights of local gin, or the street side (my preference), with its copper-top tables and plein-air view of pick-up basketball games that linger past dusk. This is the perfect spot to sip an “Assam punch” of vodka, tamarind nectar, lime juice, Benedictine and Angostura bitters while you decipher the menu. Ask questions: Terse descriptors like “hay braised lamb” and “sesame sable” could really use more explanation. Don’t shy away from non-standard ingredients. The hit of our dinner was sliced rare duck with savory nut-filled crêpes, braised greens and sweetly tart gooseberry sauce. Not everything sings: Salt cod fritters with malt vinegar were simply dull, and the promising-sounding porcini bread pudding with fava beans, peas and caramelized-endive bouillon fell short on both flavor and texture. Beverage service can be spotty; even with a virtually empty bar, a requested martini refill took a good 20 minutes to appear. ANGIE JABINE.
Ideal Meal: In summer, start with pulled pork and sweet pea ravioli, then go veggie with tomato-braised artichokes, crispy polenta and olive salad.
Best deal: The lunch menu offers a cooled flank steak with blue cheese, parsley and sherried onions for $7.50. Happy hour 5-7 pm Monday-Saturday.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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