This raucous, friendly entrant in the North Mississippi Avenue restaurant sweepstakes is one of the city's more endearing macaroni houses, even if it's not always too hung up about the whole al dente thing. The menu consists of a fairly standard roster of boiled semolina-based lifeforms. A satisfyingly salty puttanesca ($7.50 small, $14 large), mussels in red sauce ($9.50/$17), a Northwesty hazelnut salad ($4.50-$7)-you've seen this stuff before. With one of the horseshoe-shaped bar's quicksilver cocktails or a glass of cheap house red, the lack of novelty won't bother you at all. (ZD)