Housed in the Old Multnomah Hotel building (now an Embassy Suites Hotel), this basilica to beef makes very little room for frivolity in the practiced demeanor of its waitstaff or in the presentation of its hearty meals. With a foundation in about 20 different beef-based dishes, the dinner menu makes few incursions into the non-mooing meats, its seafood choices consisting largely of prawns, Dungeness crab and salmon dishes and its pasta menu consisting of a scant (but well-prepared and imaginative) four dishes. Vegetarians dragged to this joint by carnivorous parents or business associates must choose between a couple of starter salads and two of the four wood-oven pizzas. But meat eaters will rejoice at the sight of the delicious slow-roasted prime rib and the braised beef pot roast. (MB)