Dish Review

With walls decorated with Italian-themed posters and vintage celebrity pictures, Sal's styles itself as a casual gathering spot. The restaurant's concept of focusing on a wide variety of pastas and pizzas seems to be working, if crowds are an indication. The basic thin-crust pizza is simply delicious on its own, with a chewy crust, gooey mozzarella, salty pecorino and fresh tomato sauce. You can make a meal out of the generous antipasti platter. There's also a lengthy wine list and an inventive selection of Bellinis and other cocktails. The meatloaf has a meaty, tender flavor and a crisp crust; the veal parmigiano, more food than should be legal to eat in one sitting, rests on a fountain of fettuccine and a clump of wonderfully garlicky sautéed spinach. (Originally reviewed 9/8/04.)