Unlike most hatbox-sized Northwest Portland restaurants, Serratto is spacious enough that it rarely sustains a substantial wait. The glowing space feels perpetually autumnal—warm, muted colors, enormous exposed wooden beams, blacksmithed chandeliers. Choose from several classic pasta dishes, one of which usually loads on the meat (spaghetti with braised pork shoulder, spicy Italian sausage and a beef meatball) as well as more delicate renditions—housemade tagliatelle with saffron cream and Dungeness crab. Fret not, you'll find the ubiquitous beet chevre salad, here in a creamy Dijon tarragon vinaigrette, as well as the to-be-expected grilled wild salmon, punctuated by a citrus aioli. Less standard fare freckles the menu for those inclined. (LC)