The Takahashi is proof that optimism can be rewarded. From the outside, it looks like the last place you'd ever want to eat raw fish—a seedy storefront, gravel parking lot, crumbling mural. But those brave enough to step inside will find themselves in a small, dark, delightfully cluttered space that looks like a fisherman's hut. Kitsch-draped chandeliers hang at each of the heavy wooden tables; cushions line built-in benches. A miniature train circumnavigates the room on a track just below the ceiling. The large back room, beyond a low-slung central sushi bar, is brighter and more airy. The immense menu touts the ramen, but really it's all about the sushi. (BO)