Once a mailbox-sized neighborhood secret whose "no reservations" policy made for interminable waits (and the people did wait), TDD is now all grown up. An expanded, twilit dining room (including a generous-sized bar for expectant diners) provides the backdrop for a menu that celebrates beloved favorites while still splashing out a little. A venerable penne vodka dish comes thick with nubs of spicy sausage, while that comfort-food icon, roast chicken and mashed potatoes, goes uptown with a seasoned cream gravy with truffle oil. The quirky, approachable wine list is more reliable than the cocktails, but then, you probably shouldn't sip a sidecar before eating halibut steak, anyway. (ED)