Restaurant Guide 2009

The house salad here isn’t complicated, with lettuce and pickled carrots spritzed in a light almond vinaigrette, but if you order it, be prepared to sink your teeth into some of the best lettuce you’ve ever had. That sounds strange, but Three Square Grill elevates straight-shooting vegetables and greens, and sometimes meat and seafood, to stardom. This should come as no surprise; these are the folks behind Portland’s famous Picklopolis pickles. Three Square Grill’s farmers market platter midsummer is a straight-from-the-source flavorful medley of grilled baby artichokes, zucchini, wild mushrooms, warmed housemade sauerkraut, green beans, citrusy garlicky collards and more. Although the Hillsdale-proper dining room isn’t much to speak of, it’s comfortable and feels like family.
Order this: Pickle platter with briny-good fiddlehead, asparagus, beets, green beans, etc.
Best deal: Fried okra, fried pickles and hushpuppies platter with jalapeño jelly, $6.
I’ll pass: On the crab cakes, which are a little mealy and batter-heavy.