April 21st, 2010 KELLY CLARKE | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Devour 2010

     
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[CHEESE, BEER] Steve Jones has upgraded his digs from the back corner of Square Deal Wines to a chic, slate-gray chamber at the foot of Mount Tabor, but his fabled cheese case is still front and center—and still filled with a personally vouched-for selection of amazing fromage from small producers across the globe. Jones is particularly taken with Alpine “mountain cheeses” right now, which, he explains, refers to anything produced when animals graze exclusively at higher altitudes and therefore on fresh, green grasses, yielding cheeses with a nutty, rich, funky flavor. The fact that I can now listen to this kind of information with a beer in my hand is truly marvelous (six rotating taps, plus lotsa bottles). Oh, and did I mention the other case full of Olympic Provisions sausages? I know. Mind blown.
Grocery list: Montagnes du Jura raw cow’s cheese ($29.90/lb.); Olympic Provisions saucisson sec; sweet, fizzy Dogfish Head Festina Peche ($2.45 a bottle).

 
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