That amber glow, those red Ultra-suede booths, and the ting-ting-tinkle of lounge music gives Urban Fondue such a mid-'70s Vegas vibe one half-expects to see Robert Urich dipping into the traditional Swiss fondue ($9.95). Is the bread a little dry, the cheese a bit insipid, the add-on of French garlic sausages easily worth $4.25? Yes, yes and yes. But to those who complain that the place is overrun with urban hipsters, just say phooey; fondue is fun, especially at happy hour, when it's half-price, and Scott, the very nice bartender at adjoining Bartini, busts the budget by pouring a crisp Ultimate vodka martini ($12). (NR)