This little vegan hole-in-the-wall in Chinatown could also be known as "The House of Analogs," as the kitchen staff have perfected their versions of beef, shrimp and fish with tofu and tempeh. Often it's successful, though at times too much salt has been used to mask differences. But if you've denied yourself a good sweet-and-sour dish because it falls outside of your dietary plan, try the S&S shrimp dish ($12.75), which is marvelously crispy on the outside and tender in the middle. The veggie beef with broccoli ($7.75) is also worth sampling. While the spring rolls ($1.80) are delicious, the pot stickers ($4.95) should have stayed in the pot. Oh well, a vegan can't have everything. (SS)