When it comes to dim sum, there's no place in Portland, from Chinatown to 82nd Avenue, that comes close to matching Wong's King. You can immediately taste the difference in the freshness of the ingredients: Staples like sui mai aren't gristly lumps, but rather tender ground pork- and black mushroom-filled dumplings topped in a neat layer of roe as orange as an OSU flag. Dinner is even better, especially if you leave your reservations behind and go with someone with an understanding of Cantonese cuisine. It's also a destination for fresh seafood—the first thing you notice when walking into the large ballroom that's chattier than a high-school cafeteria is a whole wall of cases filled with live seafood, from lobster to jellyfish. Wong's King is overstimulating, but we wouldn't want it any other way.
Order this: The Chinese greens, just a bit tart and cooked right next to you on a rolling cart.
Best deal: Dim sum, which is a steal if you go with a large group.
I'll pass: The traditional cha siu baau are middling unless you get a batch fresh out of the kitchen.