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October 20th, 2010 Hannah Feldman | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Wong's King Seafood: Restaurant Guide 2010

     
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10 am-11 pm Monday-Friday, 9:30 am-11 pm Saturday-Sunday. $-$$$ Inexpensive (dim sum)-expensive (some dinner entrees).
[HONG KONG CHINESE] Dim sum palaces in the Pacific Northwest are generally “palaces” in name only. They tend toward the utilitarian—long, low rooms with industrial carpeting and generic tables covered in plain white tablecloths, spaced just far enough apart to accommodate the rolling steam carts that bear all the delectable morsels that make up a dim sum meal. Wong’s is no exception. What does set this Southeast institution apart, however, is the attention to detail: Plates get replaced when they get too cluttered with scraps and sauces, teapots are assiduously restocked, your water glass never goes empty. The food, too, is precisely prepared. Shrimp-and-vegetable dumplings are steamed to a perfect tenderness; sticky rice in its lotus-leaf wrapper displays the perfect balance between sweet and savory. Make sure to check out the special items that waiters run out on small trays—you wouldn’t want to miss the bright sparkle of scallion that enlivens the ground pork pan-fried inside a delicate noodle wrapper. On weekends, your best bet is to come before 10:30 to avoid the lines—and, as with all dim sum, the smart strategy is to bring a group so you can try as many dishes as possible. We guarantee you’ll all eat like…well, kings. HANNAH FELDMAN.
Ideal meal: Sticky rice, shrimp-and-vegetable dumplings, pork buns, sautéed greens and—oooh, what’s on that tray?
Best deal: Chicken feet are neither the cheapest nor the most filling dish on offer, but the foodie bragging rights you’ll earn by eating them are priceless.

 
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