Once inside the genteel Zell's, one is transported far from an up-and-coming Southeast Portland neighborhood to a small town on the old Mississip', where time is slow, sweet jazz resonates, and the food is delectable. Enjoy an eclectic breakfast menu with such standouts as the portabella, spinach, tomato and assaggio scramble ($8.25) and the unique apple German pancake ($7.50). The complimentary scones and outside coffee service (where people line up on the weekends) ain't too shabby, either. (LM)