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October 19th, 2005 Elizabeth Dye | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2005

     
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The initials stand for "distrito federal," Mexico City's nickname, but if you're seeking an informal, menudo-munchers taqueria, head north to Alberta (or south—to Mexico). DF is situated in a soulless Pearl District storefront, warmed with Tuscan-toned paint, a dance-music soundtrack, and spicy, nouveau-Mex cuisine. Choose from a half-dozen varieties of seafood ceviche, from a silken octopus coctele in spicy tomato sauce, to a lime-soaked fish variety with flecks of avocado and chile. A la carte tacos, served the traditional open-faced way on fragrant, soft corn tortillas, are various (carnitas, fish, vegetarian), delicious and affordable, which makes the costlier mole and tamale entrees seem gentrified by comparison. But if you limit your grazing to the left side of the menu, squint and gulp your tequila, DF's sophisticated take on Latin cuisine might recall El Capital, indeed. (ED)

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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