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October 15th, 2008 12:00 am Byron Beck | Food Reviews & Stories

Restaurant Guide 2008


Plush room. Posh drinks. Pretty patrons. You’d be (half) right if you were under the impression this was the joint to snag a drink and a naughty one-night stand. But those Gilt-y pleasures aside, this club is more than just a banging nightspot—it’s also quite the Old Town eatery. Starters can be cheesy, but that’s a good thing when it comes to the golden manchego fritter with roasted red pepper sauce, or a platter of three cheeses (lately it’s been Pierre Robert triple crème and a Cali, as well as a Port Townsend ash-rinded goat cheese). Handsome cocktails and a handpicked wine list, created by co-owners Jamie Dunn and Cynthia Challacombe, complement Chef Pete Gadd’s various simple yet elegant entrees. Inexpensive and ample choices include a buttermilk pork loin brined in black tea, and a duck breast poached in vanilla and covered in cracklins. The Gilt Club is a real pick-me-up, and the desserts won’t let you down: The candy platter, full of bite-size bits, is nothing short of confectionery smack.

IDEAL MEAL: The crunch of the mâche, a salad of cukes and radishes, followed by perfectly seared sea scallops and a platter of candies or the chocolate cashew torte with candied bacon.

  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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