Whether you're pining for Portuguese-style pork tenderloin dressed in punchy roasted peppers and cilantro, or just begging for a burger, Lauro's got your number. Cozy but elegant, modest but with much to boast about, this Southeast sanctuary (a.k.a. WW's Restaurant of the Year 2004) knows how to cook up a bevy of palatable paradoxes. Don't pass up the mezze platter, a blast of fine and ferocious flavors, especially for those expecting hummus and carrot sticks. In the land of Lauro, an array of "snacks," to quote from the menu, includes dried figs, olives, amazing nutty lamb and rice dolmades, warm, lightly crisped pita bread, and sharp lemon tzatziki sauce. (JAD)