Olea has garnered a large following by squeezing two dining experiences into one space: Pearl-dwellers come to the comfortable bar to sip lemon-rosemary vodka martinis and nibble on hummus, pencil-thin pommes frites, and brick-oven pizzas topped with the familiar (salami) and the not so familiar (quail egg); those out on the town sit in the grand yet soothing dining room to be wowed by inventive, Mediterranean-informed cuisine. Roasted striped sea bass freed from its salt crust tableside and Andy Warhol-esque compositions of seared scallops with Technicolor sauces provide meals that stimulate the mind, eyes and palate. Not every dish knocks it out of the park, but they're all interesting, no matter what you're looking for. (IM)