Chef/owner Brad Root, formerly of Higgins, Wildwood and Red Star Tavern & Roast House, is well into year three with his Northwest seasonal restaurant extraordinaire. The moment you step inside, you'll forget the strip-mall surroundings as the clean, warm design featuring modern woodwork and a bustling exposed kitchen beg your attention. Service is so streamlined and professional that you'll never be left wanting or waiting, especially when it comes to tackling the lengthy wine list. The Dungeness crab starter pairs hunks of sweet chilled crab with avocado and a delicate vermouth vinaigrette. Entrees such as the grilled line-caught salmon with a corn-and-chanterelle sauté speak to the season. But do what you can to save room for a sweet something, because the dessert and drink pairings, such as a recent chocolate cappuccino pot de crème paired with Clear Creek pear brandy, are not to be missed. (LC)