Two years ago, Roux staked a Northwest-meets-Creole claim by bringing New Orleans-influenced food to an eclectic crowd on North Killingsworth Street. Several chef changes later, it's still good, if lacking a unified overall vision. Grab one of the wooden booths, order a New Orleans cocktail from the handsome bar, and take your pick of entrees both Louisiana-inspired (shrimp Creole, crawfish pie) and not (short ribs, "Northwest trout"), along with Southern specialties like hardshell fried chicken and glazed carrots. The Benedict is king of the Sunday brunch, with varieties that include fried green tomatoes or oysters, along with pain perdu (Creole French toast), shrimp fritters, and a crawfish omelette. Puzzlements included a cathead biscuit in a traditional milk-sausage gravy that was overpowered, oddly and unpleasantly, by fresh rosemary, and what Roux sells as housemade andouille is a dry, crumbly link closer to merguez or chorizo. Your best bet: Find an opinionated server to guide you through Roux's menu, as they do in New Orleans, and adopt a laissez les bon temps rouler shrug if your meal ends up as much Rose City as Crescent City. (KA)

Signature dish: Creole specialties such as etouffée, oysters and shrimp Bienville.

Standouts: A succulent pork chop over white-cheddar grits (brunch); roulade of rabbit (dinner).

Regrets: Beignets, while warm, delicious, and served with jam, had solid centers instead of hot sweet air. They're good, but they're fried dough, not beignets. And

why listen to the Beach Boys in a Louisiana restaurant?