In a perfect world, every neighborhood would have a restaurant like Savoy. You could walk in without a reservation and get something good to eat without spending too much money. The Wisconsin cheddar plate hints at owner Peter Bro's cheesehead roots, and the fried curds are perfect with a cold beer. Meatballs are ground pork and beef blended with pine nuts, raisins, basil and thyme, and come in a simple tomato sauce dusted with Parmesan cheese. Supper choices run from roasted chicken to pan-fried trout, with a simple flat-iron steak and mac 'n' cheese tossed into the mix. Each comes with two sides from a double-handful of tough choices. (JD)