There are plenty of Thai restaurants to choose from on Northeast Alberta Street, but Siam Society wins on innovation and ambience, with a fully loaded bar (stocked with fresh-squeezed juices and muddle-some herbs), sleek dining room and handsome back patio with an eye into the kitchen. More important, however, is Siam's far-reaching menu with all the Thai standards—soups and noodles—as well as more pioneering dishes such as brined and slow-cooked pork shoulder and pan-seared, green-curry halibut with mango chutney. After two years in business, the old power station has warmed up with more art on the walls and more tasty, house-infused spirits on the shelves, including a pear and jalapeño vodka and pineapple dark rum. (LC)

Signature dish: Kao-Soi chicken curry with rice noodles, crispy noodles, bean sprouts and hand-ground spices.

Standouts: Prodigious portions.

Regrets: With so many choices, the menu rarely changes.