Year-old Siam Society has paid its neighborhood dues after blood-sweat-and-tears renovating the handsomely graying power substation that loomed vacant on the Alberta strip for years. Executive chef Adrienne Inskeep's captivating Thai menu includes apps such as fragrant riesling-braised pork spring rolls with vanilla bean and hazelnuts among other to-be-expected items such as salad rolls and chicken satay. Sexy Beef often steals the curry-and-noodle show with strips of flank steak sauted in a spicy coconut sauce with oyster mushrooms and roasted garlic. If you're looking for a knock-your-socks-off cocktail, try the jalapeno margarita—the perfect blend of spicy, sweet, sour and salty. Although the industrial space has been criticized for its sterility, the food and drink menus hold enough heat to keep you warm and satiated. (LC)