March 2nd, 2006 Seth Lorinczi | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Dish Review

     
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Why pay $2.50 for a taco when you can get one for $1 at the taco truck? Though cries of �Yuppie!� have begun to resound across Mississippi Avenue, there�s a restaurant law, often unheeded, that you get what you pay for, and �Por Qu� No? delivers the goods and then some. Folksy knickknacks and distressed tables fulfill the decorative requirements without veering into pastiche, and the effect is charming. The menu is as diminutive as the surroundings, and as carefully composed: Half a dozen tacos, plus enchiladas and sides, and specials like excellent, delicately fluffed tamales. Tortillas are handmade; chips are fried on-site. The tweaks are in the details, like line-caught fish for the tacos, and Carlton Farms pork for the carnitas. The effect is akin to watching high-definition television: One recognizes familiar flavors and textures, but they're startlingly detailed and fully realized. (Originally reviewed 11/9/05)

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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