St. Johns was once a major stronghold of dive bars and truckers but this dimly lit health-food store-cum-vegan restaurant proves that the granola-and-organic crowd has truly arrived—and looks like it's here to stay. And why not? Large bowls of hearty soups ($2 cup $3.75 bowl) rib-sticking sandwiches like the vegan Reuben ($6.25 with a side salad) and entrées like sesame-peanut noodles ($7) make giving up meat a joy not a deprivation. That is if you can see what you're eating (what's up with the lighting anyway?). Decadent sweets such as chocolate pie and thick brownies are addictive and dairy free. (LC)