No one in town makes tapas better than Ricardo Segura. He blends Iberian heartiness and French elegance in his personality and his cooking�he shares that role with cooking partner Bernard Malherbe�and the result is Patanegra�s atmosphere of spirited energy. Choice among the cold tapas is a tuna tartare: tiny nuggets of the glistening fish mixed with capers, tomatoes and hardboiled egg. The warm tapas often beautifully merge sea and land. There are grilled squid, seared monkfish saut�ed with just a hint of lemon, and grilled scallops wrapped in sweet serrano ham. And no meal is complete without a crema Catalana, like a cr�me br�l�e topped with a cracklingly burnished crust. (RJP)