February 16th, 2006 Seth Lorinczi | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Dish Review

     
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The interior, dimly lit and done up in somewhat homespun carpets and banquettes, is oddly comfy, even if there's no hiding the fact that you're seated in a darkened box. It's a welcome surprise to visit a Moroccan restaurant that isn't dressed to the nines in luxuriant tapestries and pillows. Sadly, the letdown comes with the appetizers, though things improve, relatively, with the entrees. The best is the least complicated: steamed vegetables over a bed of couscous. There's nothing wrong with the tagine of chicken stewed with preserved lemons, or the lamb cooked in honey, apricots and prunes (the same cannot be said for the one dessert, a layered pudding that one night was alternately soggy and frozen.) The sense of missed opportunity dogs the cooking here—Baraka gives just a hint of the exotic and nuanced flavors of Moroccan food at its best. (Originally reviewed 10/5/05.)

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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