Big Daddy's BBQ beckons from the corner of Southeast Hawthorne and 30th Avenue with flame-painted windows, red roof and requisite smoker. The A-frame provides a nice place to hang out, chat up the friendly servers, and watch ESPN on two televisions. Owner Steve Anderson offers every Southern dish known to man and debutante alike, from hush puppies to fried okra. Sadly, with the exception of an excellent potato salad, sweet tea, and a passable pulled-pork sandwich, few items are worth return visits. The variety of sauces that grace each table—Kansas City Mild, Tarheel Mustard, Mojo Texas Hot and Memphis Smoky—is a metaphor for the menu: Big Daddy's has adopted a more-is-more strategy instead of focusing on a few tried-and-true recipes that could build a reputation. (Originally reviewed 6/30/04.)