An anthology of Greek signature dishes—dolmathes, spanakopita, calamari, saganaki and moussaka—is fortified by Middle Eastern classics like baba ghanouj and lentil soup. The pan-fried goat cheese appetizer ($8) lusciously melts and oozes, but the stuffed vine leaves ($8) are too mushy. Every main course comes with rice, roast potatoes, Greek salad and tzatziki. The perfect game hen ($15) spurts juicy flavor. The salmon steak ($15), however, seems utterly banal. One touch of playfulness: cardamom-perfumed baklava ($2.50), laced with chocolate. The main room is cold and unadorned, but the garden is among the handsomest in the city. Take a post-meal glass of Metaxa at the bar and dream of the culinary gods on Mount Olympus.