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July 21st, 2010 CHRIS STAMM | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2009

     
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Laboring under the false assumption that a dab of old Hollywood glamour classes up the joint, Gracie’s effortful decor is a veritable semaphore of warning to skedaddle up the street for less ostentatious (and expensive) digs. In other words, the ghost of Louis B. Mayer isn’t booking a reservation anytime soon. Which is too bad, because this gem off the lobby of the Hotel deLuxe makes up for its lack of visionary design with culinary surprises like the Gorgonzola cheesecake, an uptown version of a cheese log that shares its sweet namesake’s consistency, but that once tasted manages to sidestep gimmickry altogether. The goat cheese-stuffed chicken breast is paired, somewhat incongruently, with pancakes and chutney, and while the two sides of the plate never quite cohere into a perfect dish, the tender chicken, with its delightful rosemary-heavy filling, is beyond reproach. So, yes, there are a few kinks here, but ain’t that what Hollywood is all about?
Order this: The goat cheese-stuffed chicken breast, if you can figure out what to do with the pancakes that come with it.
Best deal: And best indulgence—the Gorgonzola cheesecake.
I’ll pass: Seared tuna, served lukewarm with a rubbery bean salad and bland potatoes.

 
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