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October 18th, 2006 Roger J. Porter | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2006

     
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There are no trade winds in the Pearl, but if you duck into Callaloo you'll spot lazily spinning fans, straw beach umbrellas and rum drinks on almost every table. Callaloo's culinary efforts are sometimes deeply satisfying, sometimes overingenious and overzealous, but its best dishes are the simplest: conch fritterslike hush puppies, but sweeter and lighter; palomilla, a Cuban grilled hanger steak marinated in a dark-red chili sauce, served with yuca (cassava tuber) fries; Caribbean ratatouille, a delicious mix of mangoes, tomatoes and yuca. But an order of scallops is typical of what can go wrong when too many items pile up on the plate. Redemption comes in the form of a creamy passion-fruit pie, or a rainbow of sorbet with kiwi, prickly pear and rum, each scoop an homage to the sugar cane that sweetens the region.
 
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