The restaurant's take on Thai isn't the most inventive, but its reliably tasty, affordable food is peppered with just enough surprises to make it stand out. Noodles are the star attraction of the menu, with a half-dozen "pads" to choose from, most made of the broad, flat rice noodles that offer satisfying bite and gummy texture. Diners can choose mild, medium or hot versions of most dishes, but compared to the spiciness scale at Lemongrass or Khun Pic, medium here is more a flicker than a flame. The most richly textured curry is the Gang Garee, with firm pieces of potato, carrot, zucchini and pepper. The specialty entrees are a bit more adventurous, but adventure doesn't seem to be the restaurant's strongest food suit. The new Northwest location doesn't offer the bustling charm of the downtown spot. (Originally reviewed 2/4/04.)