February 21st, 2006 Roger J. Porter | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Dish Review

     
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Perched on the north side of Jamison Square, Fenouil is one of the most glamorous restaurant in the city; if it lacks any ingredient, it�s an easy manner and an atmosphere of bonhomie. With few exceptions, however, the cooking is authoritative and assured. Chef and co-owner Pascal Chureau has created an authentically French menu. Steak tartare is a discreetly small square of Kobe beef with a tiny raw quail egg atop�pure sensuous pleasure. The best single dish I had was duck two ways: a crisp confit and a barnyard-earthy magret, allowing you to shift back and forth between different styles of richness. The surprisingly succulent filet of wild boar is to pork what venison is to beef: woodsy, deep and nutty. Desserts are small but inexpensive, so it makes sense to order a medley. Aesthetics count as much as taste here�everything looks stunning on the plate. (Originally reviewed 1/25/06.)

 

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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