After the decline of her NoPo Italian restaurant, Mama Gianetta's, Janet Penner hatched a plan to remake the place as a barbecue joint. She and chef Roberta Bond came up with their own special sauce and menu; they call it "Pan-Southern Northwest Barbecue," which is most easily described as "less sugar." Bond, originally from Canada, lays to rest the myth that only Southerners can do right by one of the trinity: spare ribs, black-eyed peas and collard greens. She cooks her greens so there's still life left in 'em, their slight sharpness set off perfectly by bacon (there's a vegetarian version as well). The tender ribs are better than most around town, destined to give Yam Yam's and Campbell's a run for their money; while they could use a touch more of the smoky grill flavor, Bond's spicy sauce really shines. (Originally reviewed 6/30/04.)