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July 21st, 2010 CHRIS STAMM | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2009

     
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With produce grown on its own Skyline Boulevard farm and an impressive roster of sundry local suppliers, the only thing Meriwether’s lacks is an altar to Michael Pollan. But don’t fret: If it’s worship you’re after, the televisions in the bar are tuned to sports. Food origins are a big selling point here, but a hefty helping of ethics would amount to squat if the dishes didn’t deliver. Praise Pollan they do. The epic selection of starters includes the strangely satisfying chickpea fries, which occupy an odd zone between falafel and Burger King french-toast sticks. It shouldn’t work. It does work. Braised farm greens are served over a slab of grilled bread that lends a pleasantly charred kick while soaking up the rich garlic and anchovy broth. The entrees reward appetizer moderation with hearty dishes like the Dungeness crab risotto, which uses crab as a refreshingly gentle flourish and lets the summer squash and subtle butteriness come to the fore.
Order this: Dungeness crab risotto.
Best deal: A plate of harissa chicken wings makes for a suitably modest and messy bar meal.
I’ll pass: The toast with anchovies and tomato is a bit bread-heavy, taking up stomach space that should be reserved for an entree.

 
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