Even on a dark and windy Sunday morning, the hostess may ask, "Would you like to sit outside," and she's not joking—while the newly remodeled interior feels a bit starchy, the most notable feature is the covered patio, equipped with heaters that seem powerful enough to fry your eggs from above. For breakfast, Meriwether's offers the basics, incuding applewood-smoked bacon, for lunch there are hearty salads and soups, including a seafood chowder that's thick with hunks of shrimp and fish, and a star (but expensive) entrée at dinner is the grilled beef tenderloin with bacon-wrapped potato gratin and soft-cooked leeks. For all the spark of the restoration, though, Meriwether's hasn't yet hit its stride; over several visits, the staff seemed so harried that you might be tempted to refill your own coffee. (Originally reviewed 11/3/04.)