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October 17th, 2007 Ethan Smith | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2007

     
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Meat lovers go to expense-account-friendly Morton’s for one thing: steak. That sounds obvious, but it’s worth repeating about this oft-maligned mega chain. Massive hunks of premium, well-marbled, bloody beef makes Morton’s a good fit for those who favor flavor over price. Sides like sautéed fresh spinach and mushrooms are passable but rely heavily on salt and butter. What else would you expect from these old-school meat mavens who make iceberg lettuce the centerpiece of most salads? Who goes to this place for its greens when the Chicago-style bone-in ribeye is everything a steak ought to be: three inches thick, salty and crusty outside, meltingly tender within and sitting in a puddle of its own juices. Every bite brings it a little closer to being worth the exorbitant price, and with premium dry-aged beef that only a handful of steak joints can afford to even carry, it’s worth the occasional splurge. (ES)

Signature dish: Chicago-style bone-in ribeye.

Standouts: Ten bucks cheaper than their full-sized steaks, the “slightly smaller” cuts are still plenty of red meat for even the biggest eater.

Regrets: If you want subtle flavors, an adventurous menu or an affordable night out, this isn’t the place.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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