Although Nostrana packs 'em in with long waits on weeknights, widely spaced tables and cathedral-high ceilings keep claustrophobia at bay. Old windows used as mirrors make the room appear even larger, and the dizzyingly tall bar is constructed of salvaged planks. The cuisine follows suit: rustic, fired Italian—wood-oven-baked pizzas (which arrive at the table uncut), grilled rabbit, pork, flatiron steak and seasonal fish. Even veg-heads can indulge: A mista salad brims with snappy greens, and housemade pasta specials ensure no one will want for anything homey and delicious. The wine selection is centered on Italy, with a smattering of California and Oregon creations and a surprisingly solid selection of wines by the glass. Locavores will delight in the roster of local suppliers listed at the bottom of the menu—the culinary equivalent of the post-movie credit reel.

IDEAL MEAL: Charcuterie plate, funghi verde pizza, tagliata flatiron steak.