January 9th, 2006 Roger J. Porter | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Dish Review

     
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The Gino's quartet's new restaurant is the one we have been waiting for: a rustic yet beautiful Italian restaurant with a kitchen that turns out some of the most honest, authentic food in the city. Housed in a former grocery store with 25-foot barrel-vaulted ceilings, Nostrana features acres of warm wood against walls of glass, a woodshed piled high with firewood inside the spacious yet cozy room, and a tiled, wood-fired pizza oven brought from Italy. Pizzas, thin as a silver dollar with smoky charred crusts, are center stage, but this is no pizza parlor; although chef Cathy Whims can turn out a dish as elegant as a Ferragamo bag, Nostrana coaxes intense flavors from humble ingredients in dishes like chicken slow-roasted with crackling skin and sautéed potatoes and porcini bread salsa. (Originally reviewed 12/7/05.)

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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